Flowers, stems, leaves, berries, bark, roots, dried insects, lichen and minerals were the sole means for coloring fibers before 1856. At this time William Henry Perkin discovered the artificial production of dye from a constituent of coal tar. Since, synthetic dyes have been accepted by the masses and dyes from natural materials are rarely used except in under developed countries and by those devoted to preserving this aspect of our human story.
From garden plants and roadside growth to exotic cochineal insects and indigo extract, natural materials will imbue color onto fiber, though their strength and fastness vary. The common submersion dye bath is prepared by cooking the plant matter to extract the dye. Before the fiber is entered into the dye bath, it may be mordanted, a process of heating it in a metal salt solution which causes a chemical reaction owing for a stronger color and permanence. Natural materials may be combined in a dye bath or fibers over dyed to create a vast range of hues. An amazing spectrum of color is also obtainable from a single dye pot because each mordant (alum, iron, copper and tannins), as well as combinations of them will create a different color. Indigo blue is an exception as no mordant is necessary and a specific chemistry is required in the bath to convert the dye to a soluble state.
In order to create surface designs on fabrics beyond the pattern possibilities of resist dyeing in a submersion bath, concentrated natural dye extracts may be thickened for surface applications such as painting and screen-printing. The fabric may be mordanted prior to applying the dye and/or mordant may be added to the dye solution for simultaneous application. Natural dye pigments may also be applied to the surface of fabrics using a solution of soy protein as a binding agent. Both, extract and pigment applications, must then be followed by steaming and/or air curing to set the color.
By supporting the use of natural dyes one can become more familiar and appreciative of their natural surroundings, have access to an incredible range of colors, relive an aspect of our human story and have comfort in not supporting synthetic industry.
